![]() I use I lot of ECN2 movie film stocks which have a colour of their own. Lastly different film stock retain colour differently. I have also read that if you chemistry is a little off (time/temp/age/other) it can affect the colour. Sometimes it is due to the white balance the photo was shot in as I find colour film much more sensitive to WB so if shoot on the green lawn the faces are green (etc). some negatives seems to scan perfectly (colours), others are way off. I use an Epson v800 flatbed and the basic settings. 2017 is passing in a blur! I hope to get back on it soon after my Ironman triathlon is out the way. Hi Richard, My apologies for my very slow reply. Next see colour film developing process below.Repeat warm water rinse process until water runs clear.Empty the contents into a white bowl/sink (solution should be black).Refill developing tank with warm water (40 degrees Celsius).Empty the tank content into a white bowl/sink (Solution should appear coloured yellow-pink at first then towards the end of the emptying start to go black (carbon remjet layer)).Shake vigorously for 1-2 minutes (nothing exact as all guestimated).Soak for 3-5 minutes (nothing exact as all guestimated).Pour solution into Paterson developing tank containing ECN-2 film.1 litre warm water (40 degrees Celsius) to dissolve the baking soda in.My remjet removal method is as follows: Remjet removal – Step by Step Instructions Personally I tried baking soda as I found that in my local shop first. Both make an alkaline solution when dissolved in water. Popular choices seem to be to use washing soda or baking soda. I also got a shipping estimate of $11.95 for one kit to NJ, $14.95 for two kits, so it is worth it to buy multiple kits to save on shipping.Before attempting to develop my own ECN-2 film I did some reading to try to understand how to remove the remjet backing on the film. (i.e., mix once, or mix 10 times for 10 rolls of 120?) Is the idea that you mix the two to create a concentrated developer, and then further dilute that for one-shot use? Or do you mix both when you do the dilution. My only remaining question is about the contents of the kit, which differs somewhat to what the instructions say. My mistake on the above - that table is only for the bleach, fixer, and final rinse capacities. For 120 film (what I shoot primarily), it is 10 rolls / liter. Right in the beginning, on the third page, for small tank processing, it lists various film sizes and the number of rolls of each that can be processed per quart / liter. I read through it and this info comes from 2005, and contains details on Small Tank, Sink Line, Batch, and Rotary Tube processing. (this link is on their MSDS page, and mentioned on the C-41 kit page as well) I e-mailed the Formulary earlier today with some questions about the kit, and received a reply with an attachment containing the Kodak data sheet that is included with the kit: If I had a non-shipping choice I'd be all over it, but alas, I don't. It's tough to imagine, though, vinny, that you couldn't get all this stuff in LA. Unopened, the kits are dated out more than a year. The opened concentrates for the second liter of each kit keep just fine for as long as a month or six weeks. I mix up half of each kit at a time (not hard to do), and use that liter usually within two weeks. ![]() Southpoint's minimum order is a case of six kits (12L of developer), which is enough for about 80 rolls of 120, give or take. ![]() I've been buying the 2-L Flexicolor SM kits, which as you say don't require starters. ![]() The bleach is the Trebla "universal", and is a concentrate in the cubes, which make about a zillion gallons of the stuff.Ĭ-41 developer is the harder problem since it's perishable. Bleach is pricey, but there's no reason not to buy a year's worth at a time at least that way you get your money's worth for the hazmat and shipping charges. (I use it diluted 1+1 for B&W, so it's even more economical.) I buy these both in the large "cubes". (ZZ is your man there.)īleach and fixer keep forever, and C-41 fixer is perfect for B&W also cheap as sand and highly effective. I get fixer from B&H (I get free shipping for my NAPP membership, which is the best reason to join I've made my membership dues many times over in shipping charges saved.) B&H won't ship bleach or developer for "hazmat" reasons, so I get them from Southpoint Photo Imaging out of Nashville. Attempts to have the local color lab (the only one for probably 100 miles) order if for me when they order their own were a failure for a mix of reasons. I have to order all mine, since no one locally sells it.
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